Wednesday, 28 December 2011

Always have a spare battery charged - tips for good photography

I am photographing a wedding tomorrow and expect to take nearly a thousand pictures! I have therefore spent the last two days making sure camera and flash batteries are charged and ready to go.


It is worth investing in a second battery for your camera so that you always have it ready to take pictures. Nothing worse than seeing a great image only for the battery indicator on the camera to blink 'no charge' and we are relying on the quality of the mobile phone!


So if you have a new camera for Christmas get a spare battery. Happy New Year shooting -  I'm off to London to get some street shots of the celebrations.


Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Another year of tips! - tips for great photography


Last blog before Christmas! I hope you are all having a good time. Many of you may well be giving and getting cameras for presents. The whole point of this blog is to make the most of that present and turn taking photographs into an enjoyable hobby.


Take plenty of images over the holidays and remember some of the tips I have given over the last year. It is interesting to view the most explored tips and these may be a good places to start with the new, or even old, camera. The most popular tips are listed on the left of the blog and below in order of popularity.




All the best and I hope you continue to read the blog and get something from it.


Wednesday, 14 December 2011

Pet portraits - tips for good photography

Photographing animals has given me a lot of pleasure recently. I have been taking a lot of pictures of dogs and have been very lucky that the recent ones have all been placid and well behaved, this does make everything much easier. It is the same for animals as it is or people, always try to get the eyes in focus. Remember to take lots of pictures, there is less posing control so capturing the right tilt to the dogs head is tricky. Try moving the dogs own ball or toy above your own head to get the dog to track it, this means the best picture will almost certainly be captured in a series of images. This does mean you may have to take the picture one handed though!


This lovely dog has epilepsy, so no flash photography. This meant outside shooting and the use of reflectors to bounce the light in the right way.

One way I got these three dogs to sit close together was to loop one dogs lead through the collars of the other two. It did not take too much work in Photoshop to remove any exposed pieces of the lead.


As with photographing children, get down low. A lowered perspective gives a much better and more natural composition, a very different image of your pet than the one usually taken from eye level looking down.

Monday, 5 December 2011

Left or right? - tips for good photography

After last weeks post I got to thinking about composing pictures to the left or right. I think the theory goes that if we read left to right then put the main subject on the right of the picture, so that as we 'read' the image we are led towards the key element.


Putting the subject on the left definitely adds a 'thinking' space to the image, a space into which the thoughts of the subject can also develop in a latent kind of way, if that makes sense. This is emphasized in portraits if people gaze into that space and adds another layer of meaning, asking the viewer to imagine the subjects thoughts.


Sometimes the middle may be the only place for the subject. There are no rules but instinct and our artistic  tells us when a picture is pleasing to the eye. Good photography is about deciding what the best composition is and having an artistic reason for framing the picture the way it is, others can always disagree and the debate can be fun!


Published a day early because tomorrow is busy and I don't want to let my readers down!

Saturday, 3 December 2011

Getting it right in camera - tips for good photography

So busy I missed posting last Tuesday! It is not just the commissions that take the time it is preparing the pictures afterwards. That is why it is so important to work on using your camera properly so that you have to do less processing afterwards. However, there are so many creative things you can do on the computer afterwards it can consume a lot of time.

There are three things to get right in camera:

1. exposure - the right balance of contrast in a picture

Bride at the threshold of the Church door - didn't use the flash because it with the strong contrast that made the exposure right

2. focus - keeping the part of the image you want to be the centre of attention sharp
Controlling the depth of field required an understanding of aperture and  shutter speed
3. composition - the use of space and geography of picture elements that can please or disturb according to the intention of the image taker

Left or right, but rarely in the middle!
All three require technical expertise, an artistic appreciation and a empathy for the people and places being photographed. Perhaps I have learnt that it is the getting to know and understand people and places that actually makes for the very best images, you need much less of the first two to be a great photographer!

Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Colour projects - tips for great photography

Why not pick a favourite colour and make it into a project. Find as many objects in that colour and put them together into an album on a website like flickr. In this set I have chosen a square format and by getting in close increased the level of abstraction.

 Life-ring at the Albert Dock Liverpool. Notice the very shallow depth of field and the very blurred background.

Chester busker from Peru. Fantastic colours in his traditional costume.

 Maserati on the streets of Manchester. I like the drifting clouds reflected in the gloss.

 Had to include a flower I suppose! Getting in close makes it a little difference. Walton Hall near Warrington.

Tight crop again but the logo loses none of its power on this tail-fin at Liverpool Airport.

A lot of people make such colour collections into mosaics and montages and this might be one way to develop it. Happy colour hunting!

Tuesday, 8 November 2011

Breathing space - tips for good photography

Sometimes you need space in your pictures to allow the subject to breathe. Sometimes this is an important part of the context when a close up just will not give the whole story.

 Enjoyed watching these planes land and take off from Preesall Sands beach near Knott-End-on-Sea; the Lake District hills in the distance. The plane is taking off and the space in front and above seemed a right composition

This is the 'Darcy tree' at Lyme Park. It was taken in the last hour of the day when colours seemed much stronger. A solitary tree on the horizon surrounded by space is always a powerful image

 These horses had had a hard gallop on the sands at Lytham and again the pictures breathes
because of the space

Subjects like these need a simple background and it is often tough to find the right angle to achieve this. So always walk around the object you want to photograph, be prepared to walk the extra mile for the picture that might just be that little bit different. 

Wednesday, 2 November 2011

Silhouettes - tips for good photography

Silhouettes are created by a strong back-light, usually the sun or bright sky, which causes the near side of object to become dark. These four images show the effect well and perhaps the black and white ones best of all. In all cases there is a very high contrast which is always interesting to the eye, dark blacks and bright white areas. Highlights may become too overexposed and dark area too much underexposed, so getting the correct exposure can be difficult.

 Blackpool beach fishermen enjoy the Summer evening as shadows lengthen

Interesting lightening of these beautiful welsh mountains at different distances from
the camera as the atmosphere and mist help to reflect light around the valleys

A solitary bullrush against a bright winter clear sky

Beaches give strong contrast enhanced by the storm-light between clouds over
the Mersey and Irish Sea here at Formby

The crisp clear winter daylight that we can expect soon could be a good opportunity to try out your silhouette technique.

Friday, 28 October 2011

Getting things on the level - tips for good photography

The eye is very sensitive to imbalance and even though the horizon, or vertical lines might be only slightly out, the eye can pick still pick it up. Fortunately on many camera viewfinders there are lines to help get the horizontals and verticals right, but sometimes things go astray anyway even though we are sure everything was square when we took the picture. Not to worry though, because even the basic on line photo editing usually allows you to correct sloping horizons or wonky walls.


Derelict Crane on Dublin Harbour Breakwater - geometrical shapes will be a give away for wonky horizons!

When I am doing landscapes, and have my trusty tripod with me, I use the inbuilt spirit level to get things as horizontal as possible. I also have a small cube level which my son gave to me one Christmas to fit into the 'hotshoe' on top of my camera. This is really useful when I am doing panoramas and stitching multiple images together. If I had not got the pictures straight using the level I would have probably lost parts of the picture at the top and bottom when the software stuck the images together.

The Harp Bridge and the Jeanie Johnson tall ship on the Liffey

Sometimes you may want to deliberately tilt the camera over to create energy and abstraction in your image. That is great if meant! I have blogged on that before if you want to search for it.

The swing bridge that does swing! Looking upstream into Dublin

I liked these in black and white.

Keep it on the level! 

Wednesday, 19 October 2011

Letterbox crop - tips for good photography


Hi reader! Sorry I am a day late but work and a football match, Manchester City v Villareal (Final score 2-1 to City) got in the way.


As it happens the match gave me food for the blog. As I was taking pictures I wondered whether a letterbox crop would be better for the images than the normal dimensions. Certainly cropping brings the action closer, and with a forward moving game like football the narrow perspective perhaps adds a sense of pace and direction to the image. What do you think?


Framing images in this format would certainly make for an interesting display. Bespoke frames would probably be needed.


All these photos were taken under floodlight; no flash. The camera was a Nikon D300 with a 70-300mm lens. I use 3200 ISO at f5.6 and 1/200 of a second. A bit grainy for my liking.


The sports pro photographers in the last picture were probably using 500mm lenses and were probably getting down to f2.8. This would allow a faster shutter speed and more action freezing.

Tuesday, 11 October 2011

Auto-focus or manual focus?- tips for great photography

My Nikon camera has 51 separate focus points in which to place an object and the camera on auto-focus will use all, or any one or group of these I choose, to be the part of the image in focus. I normally work with just one focus point which I put over the eye of a person whom I am photographing, the part of the person, place or object most crucial in terms of sharpness. The auto-focus on quality cameras is extremely good and allows the photographer to think more about the quality of light and getting the exposure right.

In this picture I placed the focus point on the little girls nose,
getting the face and flower as sharp as I could

Only rarely do I actually set focus to manual, under low light conditions when auto-focus struggles, when something like a wire fence in the foreground is deceiving the auto-focus, very close-up photography, or I am using the hyperfocal distance in a landscape. Hyperfocal distance is the jargon for picking the point of focus in an image which enables you to maximise foreground and background sharpness and depends on the focal length of the lens, more on this in another blog.

Above Pott Shrigley on a stormy autumn day - I used the hyperfocal distance to get nearly everything in focus. I also use a very small aperture and slow shutter speed to make sure the depth of focus was maximised

Learning to control the focus point on your camera is very useful and this is actually what many non-professional cameras mean by manual focus, like Oona's Panasonic FZ38. In manual focus the photographer can decide on the focus in the very centre of the image using the little joy-stick on the back of the camera. The joystick operates the motor that changes the focus on the fixed lens. On a larger camera with inter-changable lenses there is a ring on the lens that you rotate to do this so you are directly moving the lens not the cameras focus motor.

 The little button in the middle when presses three times changes focus to manual
 The little joystick when pushed up and down changing the focus to be
nearer or further by activating the motor
on the fixed lens on this kind of camera
The ring on the left of the image is how removable lenses can be focused manually
and the little window tell you how far from the point of focus the camera is

So mechanisms might be different, but the purpose is the same, to get the vital bit of the picture sharp. Have a play with the focus setting this week. I had a great time playing with Oona's camera finding out how it worked!

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

ISO - Tips for good photography

When I first started taking photographs Kodak and Ilford film were found in everyone's cameras. I used Kodak colour 200 ISO and Ilford black and white 125 ISO in the two cameras I used then.

ISO stands for International Standard Organisation and allowed everyone to agree a scale to measure the sensitivity of a film. Sensors on modern cameras can also be made more or less sensitive in the same way different films were used.

From the back of the church ISO 3200

In the days of film I would use 400 or 800 ISO films when light was poor. Today I would use this level of ISO when photographing a wedding from behind the pews. This sometimes happens because vicars and priests refuse to let photographers near the bride and groom for fear they would spoil the solemnity of the service. I try very hard to be discreet and not to overwork the shutter, and to go with the mood and atmosphere as this always means better pictures and much happier clients.

Making the sensor more sensitive by raising the ISO also increases the grain of the image, what is called 'noise'. In the days of film this textured the images and gave them an arty feel and this can be true today too, some photographers even add 'noise' for this very reason.

When light is good, especially in my studio where I can control it completely, I use the lowest ISO I can, which on my camera is 100.  This gives very little noise and is great for smooth transitions across colours and tones, showing fine detail very clearly.

Studio portrait ISO 100

So I would suggest you take control of the ISO setting on your camera instead of leaving it on automatic. Automatic is OK , but if you want a bit extra out of your images and fine control you need to be brave and experiment with it.

Studio portrait ISO 100

Thursday, 29 September 2011

Panoramas - Tips for great photography

I was recently commissioned by a company who wanted a set of pictures of Chester and Crewe. One thing I tried out which I have mentioned before is the way photoshop, and many other software packages, can stitch images together. My previous example was a beautifully lonely spot in Wales called Cwm Idwal. This time I took on the picturesque, but urban landscape of Chester. You will need to click on the pictures to see them larger. To make them internet friendly I have reduced the pixel size of each file quite dramatically so the quality has suffered. Have a go yourself and explore this side of the software you use. I will look to see if there is any free online software that does it for you.

Competition! Can you name 7 landmarks, one in each of the pictures? No prizes but I would enjoy your involvement.

Panorama 1

Panorama 2

Panorama 3

Panorama 4

Panorama 5

Panorama 6

Panorama 7